My teenage daughter liked the Corset Cover sketch, so I decided to alter and sew the garment for her to wear as a summer top.

The alterations that I made were to reduce the front bust measurements, and increase the waist measurement. I made up a muslin first to test the fit. The alterations fit her bust and waist, however my daughter did not care for the look of the peplum.

I returned to the proverbial drawing board, and altered the pattern to remove the peplum. I lengthened the bodice by the width of the peplum, lengthened the front darts and added shaping darts in the back.   I also enlarged the arm opening on the front.  I then sewed a second muslin.

Meagan modeling her new shirt

I made the garment out of white cotton shirting. To add modesty to the lace insertion, and to keep the shirt from being too sheer, I self-lined the garment, with the lace insertion only in the top layer of the cotton shirting.  I selected light blue lace for the insertion, and royal blue ribbon to weave in the white lace beading. I worked the button holes in royal blue  thread.

2. Sewer’s skill level: intermediate

3. Pattern rating: 4 for the original & modified versions- better than average- The pattern is flattering but requires alterations to get it to look like the pattern art. For the modified version it went together nicely, but it is not the easiest wrap to tie since the strap feeds through the seam on the back of the bodice because there is no side seam.

4. What skill level would someone need to sew this & why? A beginner could sew the wrap top. An advanced beginner or intermediate would be better for the original pattern since buttons & buttonholes are called for.

5. Were the instructions easy to follow? For the modified wrap I didn’t use instructions. See my previous post for info about the original pattern’s instructions.

6. How was the fit/sizing? It was great. Size 36″ fit my size 36″ bust.

7. Did you make any pattern alterations? Yes! See this post for alteration info. This link also has more pictures of the top & a comparison of the original & modified patterns.

8. Other notes: I also made a short post on the modified top here. It mainly talks about the fabric I used.

My skill level is advanced/professional.

I would rate this pattern a 5.  The pattern was basic and the instructions understandable.

This pattern can easily be constructed by a person with basic skills.  But a more advanced seamstress could have a lot of fun with the lace and detail work.

The instructions were basic and understandable.  More detail could have been given for more detailed finish and decorative work.

Fit and sizing were fine for the style period and for todays fashions.

I only made alterations to size the pattern up.  I slashed and spread pattern pieces until the measurements were appropriate.

I cut out  two fronts and peplums, and one back (placed on the fold), following the straight grain.  I cut two strips of interfacing for the front button/buttonhole band.  If you have enough fabric you can place the fronts and back (a center back seam will need to be added) on the bias to add a little give (stretch) to the garment.

I fold and press one (cut) end of the lace trim pieces forming points on what will be the lower end of each of the six pieces.  Repeat this step on one end of each of the lace beading pieces.  Place the lace over the placement lines on the right side of the garment front pieces.  I hold the pieces in place using low tack tape that I can sew thru.  Use a narrow zig-zag stitch around the edges of the lace pieces.  Use a slightly wider zig-zag stitch and stitch OVER the previous stitching. I prefer this method over some of the other stitching choices.  It leaves a secure almost invisible stitching that lies flat.  Place the beading strips (do NOT bead the ribbon thru yet) over the placement lines.  Covering the cut edges of the lace insertion pieces,  stitch in place , using prior described method.  I like to have the lace look sheer  so I use a very sharp pair of scissors and cut the fabric from behind the lace and beading.

Fold under (toward the inside) the raw edge of the center front edge 1/4″ and press. Place the strip of interfacing under the pressed edge and fold along the fold line (encasing the interfacing), press.  Stitch in place along the interior fold.  Work the buttonholes now, avoiding the beading strip.  Stitch the darts and finish the raw edges.  A simple zig-zag stitch would work.  Or a more period finish would be to whip stitch or blanket stitch the raw edges.  I actually did a very narrow *french seam,  I know this is an unusual application, but it worked.  Stitch the shoulder seams.  A *french seam is best here.  Lay the lace over the seam line around the neckline and arm scythe areas.  Stitch using the double zig-zag method.  Trim off the excess seam allowance.  I now stitch the side seams using a *french seam.   I use small whip stitches to finish the underarm (top) edge of the seam.

I stitch the center back seam of the peplum using a *french seam.  Do a narrow hem around the lower curved edge and center front edges of the peplum.  Or what I did was a narrow hem on the center front edges then I stitched lace along the lower hem edge.   You could also line the peplum for a very nice finished look.  Pin or baste (right sides together) the peplum to the bodice body, easing to fit.  Stitch, grade and clip seam allowance.  Press the seam upward toward the bodice.  Cover this seam by stitching a strip of (finished) bias tape over the seam.  Use the stitch in the ditch method on the lower (seam) edge and top stitch the upper edge.  This helps the seam lay flat against the waist, and gives the garment a finished look inside and out.

Sew on the buttons.  Stitch a snap to the upper edge, above the beading row.  Stitch a hook and eye at the waistline seam.   Thread the ribbon thru the beading strips.  Tack the inner edge of the ribbon firmly in place,  leave the ribbon long enough to tie a nice bow.

I did the original one in a lovely natural colored batiste with matching lace insertion pieces and beading trim, and mother of pearl buttons.  It was too beautiful to use as an undergarment.  So it became a top.  It worked so well as a top that I made another in a lovely natural colored silk gauze.  I found a gorgeous black cluny style lace for the insertion and lace trim.  This is the one I hemmed with lace. I couldn’t find black beading.  So I used a natural colored beading (matched the silk color perfectly) and used black ribbon.  On this one I found black chrystal buttons that looked great.

*FRENCH SEAMS:   (for a 5/8″ seam allowance)   Place pieces WRONG SIDES TOGETHER,  stitch a narrow (3/8″) seam.  Press to set stitches, trim close to the stitching line.  Flip placing RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER,  press to set stitches.   Stitch a narrow (1/4″) seam.  Again press to set the stitches.  (It seems like a lot of unnecessary pressing but it truly helps the seam come out even and have a fantastic finished look.)

Brown velvet trim – will be used instead of lace.

My print was so busy,  I decided to choose a solid trim – finally found some beautiful brown velvet.

http://shealsosewsprojects.blogspot.com/p/trimming.html

1. Pattern name:  Princess Slip #0336

2. Sewer’s skill level: experienced

3. Pattern rating; easy

4. Skill level: intermediate; need to be able to sew a straight line, accurately make pleats, improvise neck and arm hole finishes

5. Instructions: easy to follow, although determining the length with the pleats was unnecessarily complicated

6. Size/fit: I expected it to fit a commercial size 10-12, which it did, more or less.

7. Alterations: My granddaughter is tall but short waisted, so I shortened the pattern at the waist and corrected the curves to fit her proportions in a paper mock up, as obviously she will not be wearing a corset underneath. Since our aim was a summer dress we shortend it to knee length, reducing the pleated flounce to 10″ from the given 17″. Finished length hits mid knee.

8. Other notes: I used a zipper up the back instead of buttons for more comfort in wearing. I added insertion lace over the back seams and squared it off at the back neck. I did not undercut the insertion except on the bodice and I should have not undercut the bottom row of lace as it is too open and the bra shows through, so we decided to line the dress. Using a thin neutral poly I cut it like the dress and attatched it at the yoke by hand and left the rest to hang free. I did not use ruffled eyelet, as that would have been too SS&G, as my mother would have said. (Sweet, simple and girlish) Instead I made bias edging from the dress fabric and bound the neck and arm edges before I sewed the side seams. I turned the bias to the inside and finished it with a very narrow edging (1/16th inch) on the outside. The narrow hem called for in the instructions would not be strong enough and would leave a difficult to finish lace edge under arm.

9. Materials used:  A rose-beige cotton monotone small flower print is what Elizabeth chose  from my stash, the lining is a neutral beige light weight poly, which I had on hand. I had the zipper and all the lace is vintage that I inherited from a great aunt who was a dressmaker in the era of the pattern. Cost: nothing. Only time.

10. Final thoughts: Elizabeth is thrilled to have a dress custom made for her and is happy with the way it turned out. Making the dress was fun, We were challenged to select the best lace for the project from what I had on hand and I am happy to find a good use for it. Blogging is the hardest part of the project and I do not enjoy that.  Carol Jean Locke

1. Pattern name: Princess slip 0336

2. Sewer’s skill level: experienced

3. Pattern rating: easy

4. Skill level needed to sew and why: ability to sew a straight line; easy to adjust fit  princess seams. Accuracy to make pleated flounce.

5. Instructions: clear, need to bind or face armhole edges not mentioned but a small hem as directed is not substantial enough with the lace insertion.

6. Size-fit: I expected it would fit about a size 10-12, and it was about a commercial size 10-12 (not pattern size 10-12.

7.

I’ve been so impressed with what others have done with this pattern and I hope you enjoy my post. I covered a lot of details, but if you just want to see the checklist, you can scroll to the bottom of that post. Happy Reading and Happy Sewing!