This is my version of the bias-cut Blouse 219. I would call it moderately difficult; It goes together very well once you figure out that the lines marked “slash” on the pattern are actually darts that do not match up front to back when the side seams are sewn. The pattern also lacks a pattern for the cuffs on the sleeves. This pattern is only available in one size, rather small for today’s bodies and, because of the bias cut, it would be difficult to expand. Overall, though, I think it turned out very well.

Because I wrote down sewing instructions as I went, and because they may help others, here are my proposed construction steps:

Blouse 219

Materials:

3 yds. 45″ wide main fabric (does not allow for matching plaids)

1 yd. contrast – interfacing

small piece stiff interfacing

5 yds. piping

Buttons

Make a sleeve cuff pattern: 4″ X 10″. This includes 5/8″ seam allowances.

Cut:

Blouse: Cut 2 on bias. Mark pleats and underarm darts. Do not slash darts.

Front yoke: Cut 2 on bias, cut 2 (facing) on straight grain.

Back yoke: Cut 1 on bias fold, cut 1 (facing) on straight grain fold.

Button band: Cut 2 on bias, cut 2 (facing) on straight grain.

Upper collar: Cut 2 on fold.

Under collar: Cut 2 on fold.

Cuff: Cut 4.

Interface with contrast fabric or iron-on woven fabric cut on the straight grain:

Front yoke

Back yoke

Button bands

Upper collar

Cuffs

Interface with stiff interfacing:

Under collar

Construction:

Collar:

Stitch together upper collar and facing on curved seam.

Understitch, turn, press, topstitch.

Stitch upper collar to curved edge of under collar.

Stitch under collar facing to under collar.

Understitch, turn, press.

Baste together straight side, clip to basting.

Yoke:

Baste piping to center front of front yoke, cf long side of right button band.

Stitch button bands to front yokes. Press seam toward button band, topstitch.

Stitch yoke shoulder seams.

Baste piping to outer long seams of yoke.

Stay-stitch along neck seam line. Clip to stitching.

Stitch under collar to yoke.

Cuffs:

Stitch facing to cuff, clip, understitch, turn, press.

Blouse:

Stitch pleats.

Stitch underarm darts. Slash to 1″ from point. Press open.

Stitch sleeve seam to dart.

Stitch side seam to dart.

Stitch seam between darts..

Sleeves:

Make sleeve placket.

Attach cuffs. Topstitch cuffs.

Stitch blouse to yoke. Press seam toward yoke. Topstitch.

Facing:

Stitch button band facing to front yoke facing. Press seam open.

Stitch front yoke to back yoke at shoulders. Press open.

Finish outer edges.

Stay-stitch along neck seam line. Clip to stitching.

Stitch button band facing to button band at center front.

Stitch facing to blouse at neck seam.

Turn facing to inside. Top-stitch around yoke, catching facing.

Finishing:

Button holes.

Buttons.

Hem.