This is for the “Corset Cover” #0176.
My skill level is advanced/professional.
I would rate this pattern a 5. The pattern was basic and the instructions understandable.
This pattern can easily be constructed by a person with basic skills. But a more advanced seamstress could have a lot of fun with the lace and detail work.
The instructions were basic and understandable. More detail could have been given for more detailed finish and decorative work.
Fit and sizing were fine for the style period and for todays fashions.
I only made alterations to size the pattern up. I slashed and spread pattern pieces until the measurements were appropriate.
I cut out two fronts and peplums, and one back (placed on the fold), following the straight grain. I cut two strips of interfacing for the front button/buttonhole band. If you have enough fabric you can place the fronts and back (a center back seam will need to be added) on the bias to add a little give (stretch) to the garment.
I fold and press one (cut) end of the lace trim pieces forming points on what will be the lower end of each of the six pieces. Repeat this step on one end of each of the lace beading pieces. Place the lace over the placement lines on the right side of the garment front pieces. I hold the pieces in place using low tack tape that I can sew thru. Use a narrow zig-zag stitch around the edges of the lace pieces. Use a slightly wider zig-zag stitch and stitch OVER the previous stitching. I prefer this method over some of the other stitching choices. It leaves a secure almost invisible stitching that lies flat. Place the beading strips (do NOT bead the ribbon thru yet) over the placement lines. Covering the cut edges of the lace insertion pieces, stitch in place , using prior described method. I like to have the lace look sheer so I use a very sharp pair of scissors and cut the fabric from behind the lace and beading.
Fold under (toward the inside) the raw edge of the center front edge 1/4″ and press. Place the strip of interfacing under the pressed edge and fold along the fold line (encasing the interfacing), press. Stitch in place along the interior fold. Work the buttonholes now, avoiding the beading strip. Stitch the darts and finish the raw edges. A simple zig-zag stitch would work. Or a more period finish would be to whip stitch or blanket stitch the raw edges. I actually did a very narrow *french seam, I know this is an unusual application, but it worked. Stitch the shoulder seams. A *french seam is best here. Lay the lace over the seam line around the neckline and arm scythe areas. Stitch using the double zig-zag method. Trim off the excess seam allowance. I now stitch the side seams using a *french seam. I use small whip stitches to finish the underarm (top) edge of the seam.
I stitch the center back seam of the peplum using a *french seam. Do a narrow hem around the lower curved edge and center front edges of the peplum. Or what I did was a narrow hem on the center front edges then I stitched lace along the lower hem edge. You could also line the peplum for a very nice finished look. Pin or baste (right sides together) the peplum to the bodice body, easing to fit. Stitch, grade and clip seam allowance. Press the seam upward toward the bodice. Cover this seam by stitching a strip of (finished) bias tape over the seam. Use the stitch in the ditch method on the lower (seam) edge and top stitch the upper edge. This helps the seam lay flat against the waist, and gives the garment a finished look inside and out.
Sew on the buttons. Stitch a snap to the upper edge, above the beading row. Stitch a hook and eye at the waistline seam. Thread the ribbon thru the beading strips. Tack the inner edge of the ribbon firmly in place, leave the ribbon long enough to tie a nice bow.
I did the original one in a lovely natural colored batiste with matching lace insertion pieces and beading trim, and mother of pearl buttons. It was too beautiful to use as an undergarment. So it became a top. It worked so well as a top that I made another in a lovely natural colored silk gauze. I found a gorgeous black cluny style lace for the insertion and lace trim. This is the one I hemmed with lace. I couldn’t find black beading. So I used a natural colored beading (matched the silk color perfectly) and used black ribbon. On this one I found black chrystal buttons that looked great.
*FRENCH SEAMS: (for a 5/8″ seam allowance) Place pieces WRONG SIDES TOGETHER, stitch a narrow (3/8″) seam. Press to set stitches, trim close to the stitching line. Flip placing RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, press to set stitches. Stitch a narrow (1/4″) seam. Again press to set the stitches. (It seems like a lot of unnecessary pressing but it truly helps the seam come out even and have a fantastic finished look.)