This is for the Ladies Traveling Suit (Pattern #1002).
My skill level is advanced/professional.
I would rate this pattern a 4. I went about the construction in a different manner.
I feel that a person would find experience in garment construction very helpful on this pattern.
The instructions were fine. The sleeves should be eased not gathered. I went about a different order (method) of construction. I also changed the skirt opening to the other side.
Fit and sizing were what I expected. The ease allowed on this garment makes the fit fine even by todays standards.
I made no major changes/alterations to the actual pattern. I did extend the skirt side/front front edge on the left side (as well as the right side) 7/8 inch to create an underlap in this area.
I cut out the skirt and jacket as prescribed. Then cut the lining to match. I interface the neckline and front (button) areas of the jacket. I also interfaced the waist and both front edges of the skirt.
Start by sewing the darts in the skirt side pieces. Stitch the sides to the center back piece. Now stitch the front to the side/front on the right side only. Press seams open. Repeat these steps on the lining. Place interfacing at the waist and both unsewn front edges. Place the lining and skirt right sides together. Stitch both the front (extended) seams. Grade and trim seam allowances to reduce bulk. Flip the lining to the inside (both pieces should be right side out). Match the raw edges, seams, and darts along the top edge, pin or baste. Finish with a bias strip cut from the fashion fabric. By finishing the waist this way the lining wont roll to the right side and the skirt has a finished look inside and out. After pressing, overlap the seam extensions (creating a closed skirt) top stitch the pieces together. End this stitching about 7 inches (or more) from the waist edge. Continue the top stitching on the outer (top) piece. Hem the skirt and lining (separately). Sew on the decorative buttons, and hooks and eyes at the waist closure. The skirt is finished.
For the jacket I used basically the same method as I did on the skirt. I start by sewing the darts in the front. Slash and press open. Work the side/front seams, the side seams, and the side back seams. The shoulder seams are last. Press all the seams open. Clipping and trimming as needed to create a flat lie. Place interfacing strips where the buttons will be (light pad stitching can be used to hold in place). I did not do buttonholes. I decided to keep the buttons as decorations and used jacket style hooks and eyes for closures. The jacket has a much cleaner look this way. Sew the lining together in the same manner. Place the lining and the jacket right sides together. Pin or baste in place. matching raw edges and seams. Stitch the front and neckline edges. Grade, trim, and clip where needed. Flip the jacket and lining. Right sides of both the lining and fashion fabric should be facing out, press. Baste the lining down at the arm scythe area, making sure to match shoulder and side seams. Tack the lining to the jacket at the side/front, side/back. and side seams as needed. Top stitch the front edges, tapering to the shoulder as stated. You can sew the buttons on now if you wish (less garment to maneuver). I also stitched on the hooks and eyes now. Stitch the belt loops and place on the jacket now. You can also hem the jacket and lining (separately) now, making sure the lining does not show at the hem line.
Stitch the sleeve sections together at the elbow and under/side seams. Clip, trim and press the seams open. repeat these steps on the lining pieces. Place the sleeve lining inside the sleeve. Wrong side together. Baste at the cuff edge. Lightly tack the lining to the sleeve along the seams as needed. Be careful to not create any pull. Sew the cuff pieces along the short edge (creating four joined [circles] cuffs). Interface two of these cuffs. Place one interfaced cuff and one regular cuff right sides together. Stitch one long edge (top edge). Grade to reduce bulk, understitch the top seam allowance to prevent curling. Flip cuffs so that the right sides are out, press. Place the cuff inside the sleeve, matching the cuff seam to the elbow seam. Right side (outside) of cuff facing the right side (inside [wrong side] of the sleeve) of the lining. Stitch the cuff in place. Trim and finish this seam. Flip the cuff to the outside and fold upward (over the sleeve). Tack the top edge if needed. Stitch the buttons in place through all the layers (helps hold cuff in place). Ease the sleeve into the scythe, being sure no tucks or gathers form. Stitch, catching the jacket lining, but not the sleeve lining. Re-enforce the stitching then trim off excess seam allowance. Pin or baste the sleeve lining over the sleeve allowance matching the seam lines. Hand stitch in place, working in excess over the sleeve crown. Your jacket should be finished.
I had the perfect black/gray herringbone wool, that had a slight red stripe running through it. I lined the jacket and the skirt, so that both would lay better, have more body. For this I used a red lining fabric. I couldn’t find enough buttons that I liked anywhere. So I covered some with black velveteen. I also made a coordinating belt out of the velveteen. I did not place buttons under where the belt would be placed to reduce bulk and create a smooth line for the jacket.
Thank you for your time.