This is for Ladies Blouse, pattern #1000.
My skill level is advanced/professional.
I would rate this pattern 4. Some difference in the construction order/method were used.
I person with mid level skills could complete this project without a lot of difficulty.
The instructions were fine, a bit vague, but do-able.
Fit and sizing were what was expected. Perfect for a period figure. I added more ease for a more comfortable fit.
I extended the pattern at the center back to create a better button/buttonhole placket.
I cut the pattern as directed. Crease the tucks along the front by pressing in place (tucks should point outward). Stitch along the stitching lines (1/8″ away from folded/shirt edge, leaving the far folded edge free [unattached]). Repeat this for the tucks on the back and sleeves. Fold under and interface the back button/buttonhole area. Press and stitch. Stitch the buttonholes now.
Interface the basque pieces, the cuffs, and the collars. Layer two basque pieces (wrong sides) together, with a layer of interfacing between. Do the padded granitos now. Then work the scalloped edge (I cheated and did mine by machine). Repeat this on the other basque as well as both cuffs and both collars.
Stitch, finish and press the side seams and the shoulder seams. Creating the body of the blouse. Pin the collars to the blouse. Right (decorated) side of the collar facing the wrong (inside) side of the blouse. Matching at the center front. Stitch in place, DO NOT CATCH THE UNDER COLLAR. Clip and trim the seam allowance. Fold the raw edge of the under at the seam line, press. Press the neckline seam toward the collar, cover with the under collar matching the seam lines. Stitch in place by hand. Flip the collar to the outside and fold over the blouse. Both blouse and collar should be right sides facing out.
Sew, finish, and press the seam of the sleeve. Pin or baste the finished cuff to the inside of the sleeve. The right (decorated) side of the cuff should face the wrong (inside) of the sleeve. Match the cuff edges at the tuck line. Stitch, and trim seam. Finish or cover the seam allowance. Press towards the sleeve. Flip the cuff out and up. Now the sleeve and cuff should both be right sides out. Tack the upper edge in place to hold the cuff down.Repeat this process on the other sleeve.
Pin the sleeve into the arm scythe opening (right sides together). Matching the tuck line to the shoulder seam, and the lowest part of the sleeve opening to the side seam. Ease excess fabric over the sleeve crown area. being careful bot to gather of tuck the fabric. Stitch, re-enforce, and trim off the excess seam allowance.
Pin the basques to the blouse, wrong sides together, matching the basque pieces at the center front. Stitch, press the seam allowance toward the blouse. I only cut one belt (using the measurements given, plus an extra 1 1/4″ [waist plus 2"]) , and one of interfacing (the same measurements). Trim 1/2 in from the long edge of the belt. Fold under and press (over the interfacing) the seam allowance (1/4″) on both long edges and both short edge of the belt. Pin the belt in place over the waist line seam (covering the seam). You can place the belt extension on either side of the center back. So the belt extension can be an overlap or an underlap, which ever you prefer. Top stitch the waistband in place starting at the even back edge. When you get to the extension, fold the excess under until the folded edge meets the blouse edge (about an inch should still extend past the blouse). Continue top stitching onto the extension and around to the opposite (starting) edge. Waistband is stitched in place and the waist seam is completely covered. Stitch decorative buttons to the front. Use a flat button for the closure in the back. A hook and eye (or snap) can be used at the neck edge and the waistband to create a more secure closing.
This pattern just screamed “White Linen”, so thats what I used. I found a nice medium weight linen in white that didn’t wrinkle too much (even though it was 100% linen). It was the perfect weight for the scallops and granito work.
Again thanks for your time.