This was the Ladies Blouse pattern #0219
My skill level is advanced/professional
I would rate this pattern (no instructions) a 4. I made a few small changes.
I person with intermediate skill could work this pattern (with instructions)
No instructions were given
Fit and sizing were typical for this era. I found some more ease was needed across the back shoulder area at the sleeve gusset.
Even though the center back section could be eased into place I felt that by adding aboout an inch to the length it fit better with less puckering. To add ease at the back gusst area I slashed the pattern from the gusset point to the cuff line. I then spread at the gusset point about 1/2 inch. I re-drew the gusset line to the right length.
I did my mock up (by the original pattern, no atlerations) in a one inch gingham. This way I could watch how tthe plaid would work. I am very picky about matching plaids. I started by matching the main points (hem line plaids) where I could. I made sure that every thing was matched as well as could be done before I cut. I did not cut the gusset seams. I do this much later. I interface the cuffs, collars and button/buttonhole placket. I cut 4 pieces for the button/buttonhole placket, and the cuffs. I cut a 3 wide cuff.
I start by doing some re-enforcement stitches at the gusset points ( I still do not cut the seam open). I then do the front tucks and sleeve placket. To do the placket, I go in about 2 inches from the back sleeve seam (at the cuff line) and draw a line about three inches up. I stitch along side the line from the cuff to the point, tapering in slightly. I stop, pivot, and stitch down the other sied, tapering out slightly. I then cut along the line. I Finish the open seam with a bias stirp cut from the fashion fabric. I do pin tucks along the cuff edge instead of gathers to help ease the sleeve to a smooth finish at the cuff.
I now sew the shoulder seams on the front and back yolk pieces. I then pin and ease the bottom curved seam of the yolk to the yolk seam on the blouse body, right sides together. I stitche this seam. The curved seam only, stopping at the seam lines on the corners. Clip and press the yolk seam. I now repeat this process on the straight edge of the front yolk sections and the yolk back sections. clip and press the seams toward the yolk sections.
The button/buttonhole plackets are next. I sew one placket (interfaced) rightsides, together to the blouse body, I do this on both side of the center front. Press the seam toward the placket. Place the next placket piece on top of the already sewn piece, right sides together. Stitch along the outside eddge. Press this piece around to the back side of the interfaced placket. Hand stitch or stitch in the ditch to hold the inner placket dowm. I finish the neck edge with a strip of bias tape cut from the fashion fabric.
The sleeve/side/gusset seam worked out to be very easy. I now cut the seams open to the re-enforcement stitches. Pin and stitch the sleeve seam. Pin and stitch the side seam. Now Pull these seams away from each other. Pin and stitch the gusset seam. It was that easy.
I now finish the cuffs. Place right sides together. Stitch two short sides and one long side. Clip, flip, press. Stitch one side of the open long edge to the shirt, right sides together. press the seam toward the cuff, and stitch in the ditch, or hand stitch the inside cuff down. Stitch the long curved edge of the upper collar. Trim, flip, press. Sew the long curved edge of the lower collar, encasing the upper collar betwenn the layers of the lower collar. Trim, flip, and press the lower collar. I finished the lower edge of the collar with a strip of bias cut from flannel so it would be soter on the neck. A hand stitched hem, buttons, and buttonholes. And shes finished.
After my mock up I did one in one in plaid linen. on this one I cut the front and back yolk sections on the straight I also did one in a beautiful striped lawn. I gut the pieces so that the stripes formed a chevron pattern, WOW. To size the pattern up I slashed the pattern from the neckline to the hem, just past the last tuck. I then spread the pattern to the right measurements. I did this for the back and sleeve areas as well. I then re-drew the yolk pieces to fit.
Again thanks for you time….Shelly