I really need someone who can draw to illustrate this! I will try, but no promises!
For a lapped seam the person must know how to use the stitching line as a guide for seaming.
Start with the stitching line clearly drawn on each piece, right sides up.
Add on 3/8″ seam allowance to your stiching line for a new stitching line.
Place one piece over the other, aligning on the new stitching lines and pin baste.
Stitch the stitching line
Grade seam allowance to 1/8″ on either side of the fabric.
With the graded seam allowance lying FLAT, take bottom side fabric and turn it over the seam allowance and pin to just past the other graded seam allowance.
With the graded seam allowance lying FLAT, take top side fabric and turn it under the seam allowance and pin to just past the other graded seam allowance. Now both pieces have reversed directions
Top stitch either side of the lap down.


I just watched a video on this on itunes university
Maybe I can help….
Make sense! And the drawing totally works for me.
By starting on the original seam line you are changing the size of the garmet when you fold the garmet fabric back over the seam allowance… This can be as much as 1/4 an inch per seam… When working with a 5/8 seam allowance Start on the 3/8 inch line and this should keep the size true when you fold back over the stitch line….
True! I’ve always done really tiny seams on these things, so it hasn’t been that big of a deal for the final piece. I’ll correct the article to state that.
Agreed on stitching closer in to start, so that final stitching is on intended seam line. Otherwise the illustration is very clear.