Pattern 189 Ladies Spring Mantle. Sized up to a 44 inch bust from a 36 inch bust this is a light jacket with no front closing. I would rate this as a 5 - I truly loved it… it was great to sew a challenging pattern.
It looks so just like the photo only longer. The instructions were able to be followed but for a beginner sewer they should use a good reference book for the gussets, bagging the lining and the ruffle trim. I used an heirloom ruffle trim instead of the bias ruffle, it used less fabric and could be done on the straight or cross grain.
This was my first time putting in a gusset… a challenge and worth the effort. As with all patterns… sizing is a challenge for me… but I am getting better at it… this being a one pattern piece pattern made it more of a challenge.
I am really impressed with the finished pattern… I finally finished it and it turned out beautifully. I would have liked a bit more ease in the shoulders .. in the draft shell it was fine but it seems tight now that it is finished. I used a beautiful wool crepe and bemberg lining the wool is underlined with black flannelette…
For the gathered trim, I cut strips of fabric and butted the ends together and stitched the ends.. On completion I am happy to say the stitching doesn’t show as it is hidden in the gathers… I also used some webbing to back the ruffle which gave it more body and should stop bearding( the batting from pulling through the black wool crepe)… I gathered the trim with a gathering foot… I stitched it on the jacket inside edge folded to back to the jacket seam edge. Before stitching the edges together I put some batting between the two fabrics. I then bagged the lining to the jacket and am more than impressed with how good it looks. I was not able to machine understitch the lining to the jacket so I hand-picked the edge to ensure the edges didn’t roll..
I would heartily encourage anyone to try this pattern…It is such a treat to work on a pattern and to ‘think it through’. I am looking forward to trying other pattern and shall try to take a photo early this next week and post it for all to see… I just have to sort out my phone camera and then how to upload it… I would rate my sewing skills at an advanced and was pleased to be using a pattern that with the trim component was not too easy.