These comments were originally posted on the welcome page. WordPress.com doesn’t allow comments to be moved from one post to another. However, they can be copied and reposted under the moderator’s name. Rather than doing that, I am collecting the comments pertaining to the E0162 skirt to this post.
Now that makes sense to me!
My first “update”: I got my pattern today–a lovely skirt with a 25″ waist. Mine is 35″ so I’m afraid in adding enough to wear it I would destroy the design. So guess I will just make a muslin, and ask for my next pattern online so I can play with the size on Patternmaker.
A post on measuring the skirt pattern pieces. Yup, the waist is bigger than 25″! (see pix)
Well, after sleeping on it I decided to reduce the pattern (skirt #169) to 1/4 scale for my mini dress form. I did it the old-fashioned way on graph paper. It was easy–nice straight lines for the most part. I used Kim’s method of drawing on the seam lines rather than on the seam allowances which is how I usually do doll clothes anyway. I found the “top-stitched” method recommended in the instruction sheet quite easy and it gives a nice finished look. I think it will actually fit a waist quite a bit bigger than 25″ human scale, as it is a good inch too big for my 7″ dress form.
It occurred to me while sewing that made up in Navy blue and paired with a “Middy” blouse it would make an adorable outfit for “a day at the shore”.
I have a few comments about group 1 skirt pattern #E0162.
I found the waist to measure around 30″ which should be enough ease for a 25″ waist person and then some.
Since I’m the only person around here who can try it on I added a bit to both front and back panels and then I will adjust to fit.
The skirt length, CB natural waistline to bottom is over 44″ which would be rather long for an average height. I’m 5’10″ so it will be good for me. I’m assuming the long length is to accommodate everyone and heeled Edwardian style boots.
I found the hem curvature to be a little curious and evened it out in a few places.
I also straightened CF and CB waistline for about an inch at center so the seam is perpendicular to grain. There was a slight curve that had me worried.
The lower pleat seam between 31-32 lined up almost exactly but the seams across 30-31 are at different angles so I straightened it out.
Upper seam between 25-26 didn’t line up. I’m not sure if the lap created the problem but I adjusted the pattern here too for sewing results. These two panels, front and side front didn’t line up well either.
Before making up the skirt again I think I would go back and re-look at the grain line and make sure everything is true.
I would prefer to take pictures on a day when I’m feeling more photogenic
For the decorative sections rather than soutache I’m envisioning some hand stitching, even a crochet lace trim tacked into the area.
I hope these comments are helpful,
I’m going to add a few comments to Maggie’s info on the skirt for Group 1. Yes, work hard to get the grainline correct. The bottom of the skirt does dip in the back (is longer in the back than the front) and the slightly bias grain of the side pieces, as they swoop down to the back of the skirt, helps achieve this. Yes, the waist is quite large, which is a good thing for the contemporary body, but I’m not sure why it would be so large in 1912. I’m thinking that a hem in 1912 was anywhere from 2-1/2 inches to 4-1/2 inches in depth, so I’m going to hem my skirt accordingly.
Here are things I’m considering: Hidden zipper in left side dart; some kind of slightly elastic wide waistband instead of grosgrain; and how to mark, place and sew soutache down in the area on side panels.
By now, most of you have probably seen by that I have posted photos of the muslin of the skirt (full-size) on the Facebook site, so take this a gentle reminder that they are there. (The waist on the dress form was set at 30″ and it fit perfectly.)
My photos are coming out pretty terrible probably because of the fabric I’m using. Otherwise it’s good to see someone else commenting on specifics of truing up the pattern. I also considered where a zipper might go. One of the side gore seams toward the back would work but one seamline is slightly curved which could be difficult.
For some reason I do not have “privileges” on this blog or I would upload an image of part of the pattern where I had to make some adjustments.
The skirt came out well and the instructions were helpful. I would add a section for completion of the darts although most people already know how to do this.
For modern sewers I don’t know if the lapping over steps were be a bit confounding instead of sewing the seam in a more regular way.
The hemline needs to be smoothed out all around I think.
Looking forward to the next pattern!