Ladies Blouse E0191 – the FrankenMuslin

The other members in my VPLL Group (#22) have been going gangbusters sewing up mockups of this blouse. I’m bringing up the rear. I really do think I’m the last one in my group to post!
For the most part, they are keeping the binding details in their muslins, but I’m not so sure I’ll be doing that in my final version.  More on binding and trimming later.
My muslin, for now, is more to try and get the fit right than to worry about the finicky little details.  Though I did some experimenting with the trim detail, hence the ‘franken’ moniker since the sleeves don’t match, nor does the neck treatment since I was messing around with possibilities.
The challenge here is that the pattern is for a 36″ bust and a 25″ waist. As another member of the project put it, my measurements are not even in the same zip code. And the blouse front and back are all one piece. Good times!
So I decided to size up based on my waist measurement, assuming that I could ease in any bust overages into the pleats in the front.
Oddly, the waist upsizing was almost correct, but the bust was still way too tight, and I only took the pleats in to the original pattern spec.  I also did not correctly calculate the back opening overlap, which another test sewer had warned us about. I attempted to make the correction, but I suspect I didn’t double check my math before cutting.
I did grade the sleeves correctly. They are very formfitting right now. I would not have been able to get them on if I’d left them as is. I think I will add another 1/2″ of ease just for safety. I like the slim fit though. It works for the sleeve length and makes my arm look longer without making it look chunky. If I end up lining the sleeve – the pattern is technically only lined in the bodice – I may add a touch more ease.
I’m going to get some help with the fitting tweaks, and then it’s back to the drafting table to redo the pattern before the second muslin.  And I’ll dig out my dress form from the storage room, as it would have come in really handy for scaling this pattern, and I want to be sure it’s around for me to use the second time around.
I like the overall line of this blouse, and would like to make it in a fashion fabric – I just need to decide on which fabric and if it will be one color or two. I’m thinking linen or cotton. White may be the most versatile option, as I have lots of trimmings I would be able to choose from my stash.
I will post my thoughts on the cuff and neck trim separately, as I suspect that a lot of other seamstresses will be interested in those details rather than the entire construction process.
This is a link to my project album

One response on “Ladies Blouse E0191 – the FrankenMuslin

  1. Pingback: Ladies Blouse (#E0191) « vpll1912project·

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