Bias trim on Blouse 0191

One possibility (not for me, but….) is to fold the neck trim piece under, press, and hand-stitch the trim to it. I set this up in desperation after my first three attempts at sewing by machine didn’t work, and am enclosing a picture for those of you who love hand-sewing more than I do….

But machine stitching isn’t that tough if you take it step by step.

Inside corners are a whole different procedure from outside corners, so you’ll be completing this neck trim in sections. First, cut the trim on the bias as directed – it’s the stripe fabric on the illustration that came with the pattern; it should be 1 ¾ inch wide. Fold it in half lengthwise and press. (At first, I spent a long time turning in the folds along the edges toward the middle, assuming I was duplicating a store-bought bias tape…but this is not what is needed…don’t waste your time!! )

I ran a long, wide zig zag or serpentine stitch along the edge of the bias strip to hold both halves firmly together, since I knew I’d be very busy dealing with other things (be sure it’s within the 3/8 seam allowance or you will have to take time to rip it out.  I also marked the stitching line on the “body” piece (in this case the “neck trim” piece). In the picture I did it with black marker so you can really see it; in real life I’d use disappearing ink, chalk, or mark-be-gone. Then I snipped into the corner almost to the stitching line.

I tried this both ways, but it is MUCH easier when you leave the “body” piece on top and put the “binding” bias strip on the bottom. All of the quilting sites show it the other way around, but they are dealing with giant heavy layers of quilt. Line up the raw edges and stitch toward the inside corner. Next photo  shows the needle down at the intersection of those two black stitching lines you could see in Photo 1. Leave the needle down, and pivot the “body” piece” around out of your way so you can continue stitching without catching any of the extra fullness of the “body” piece.

Now press. Approach the corner from each direction, flattening the binding under the “body” piece. Now, to get a perfect corner, think about wrapping a present, when you are folding in the sides of the wrapping paper and you crease sharp edges in the paper to fit it around the end of the box  Next picture shows the right side of the fabric. Push the bias trim all the way down into the corner so that it lines up with the opposite strip, leaving you with a perfect triangle.

Press and turn the other strip up against it, and you should have a perfect corner which you can hand-stitch in place. Next photo  shows the binding ready for hand-stitching.

Now Outside corners are a “whole ‘nother thing!”  Match raw edges together – again I recommend marking your stitching line. Stitch toward the corner, stopping exactly 3/8 inch from the corner. Remove from machine.

Fold binding to a 90 degree angle.

Now you want to stitch back to the exact spot where you stopped before, and I find this is easier if you stitch TOWARD the corner, rather than trying to start in exactly the right place. Put a couple of extra stitches in at the point, and return to your ironing board.

Press – again coming at the corner from each direction with the point of the iron. It should form a perfect mitred corner. Once you’ve mastered these two “extremes,” the gentler angles of the 0191 neck trim shouldn’t challenge you!! Good luck!

6 responses on “Bias trim on Blouse 0191

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