Reblogged from vpll1912project:
Ladies Blouse (#E0191) with rear buttons, trimmed collar and cuffs. The blouse is lined.
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I downloaded the pattern and printed the PDF. Read all the instructions, cut out muslin including the lining. I wanted to go through the whole construction of it so I could find problems/challenges early on. I also wanted to include the binding work for practice (although I used old pre-folded bias tape that was too wide). And here is the somewhat completed result:


First Issue I had was with the pleats, if I was going to pleat the front as per directions, the neck trim would be off. Looking at the picture I thought they looked more like tucks, and only the two middle ones were sewn all the way to the waist. The others looked more to be left open by the bust line. So this is what I did.
I also think the sleeves need reworking. The back of the sleeve cap just looks off the way it is set in.
The last thing had to do with the back closure. The instructions mentioned buttons, there is no added extention in the pattern to allow for buttons & button holes!


First Issue I had was with the pleats, if I was going to pleat the front as per directions, the neck trim would be off. Looking at the picture I thought they looked more like tucks, and only the two middle ones were sewn all the way to the waist. The others looked more to be left open by the bust line. So this is what I did.
I also think the sleeves need reworking. The back of the sleeve cap just looks off the way it is set in.
The last thing had to do with the back closure. The instructions mentioned buttons, there is no added extention in the pattern to allow for buttons & button holes!







Sleeve really does look like a beast. It just looks like too much fabric. I’ll watch out for this on Sunday. Thx. Really really nice work.
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The back buttons were probably meant to be set on the fabric edge, and closed with loops. That would account for no overlap at the back closure…..
Kim, that makes a lot of sense. Shows how much I know about vintage clothes! Did not think of that type of closure.
I have been reading about the sleeve with great interest. I do not know much about this era, but in 1860 the underarm seam did not match up with the bodice side seam. Does rotating the sleeve seam towards the front help the fit? On my 1860′s dresses the offset is 1 1/2-2 inches. I maybe barking up the wrong tree as it were, but maybe not…..