# 0191 Ladies Blouse
Ladies Blouse (#E0191) with rear buttons, trimmed collar and cuffs. The blouse is lined.
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| A4 | LTR | TAB | Oversize A0 (24×48) | PatternMaker |
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| A4 Size Measuring Box | LTR Size Measuring Box | Taping Instructions |
And to get inspiration for your next creation, check out these beautiful garments!
| Sewing The # 0191 Ladies Blouse (Disparate Disciplines Blog) |  |
| Blouse #0191 by Lisa and Robin |  |
| Blouse #0191 by Giraffeinreno |  |
| Dyslexic blouse- updated by Theresainmerida |  |
| Blouse #0191 by Karen | |
| VPLL Checklist for #0191 by Jane | |
| Historicdancer’s Blouse | |
| Leila’s ThreeDresses Blouse | |
Getting this pattern is a Motivator!! (if I make it through the whole year as a volunteer tester).
I wonder about fitting the neckline. It strikes me that the necklines I see on Downton Abbey clothes don’t look fitted. Think this is a “period touch”, or a costumer’s wiggle room? This one looks like it is fitted up into the neck, just a bit.
I’ve got the bodice put together & the pleats all done (that took a little too much time!), but am having a little trouble with the sleeves. I’ve figured out that the sleeve seams don’t line up with the bodice seams. I’ve got one sleeve put in and lined up perfectly (except I accidentally put it in inside out so will have to redo that), but the other sleeve is being a little stubborn. I’m sure I can get it eventually- probably once I’ve gotten more sleep- but does anyone know of a quick tip or trick to get the sleeves in and lined up correctly?
I’ve got to say, I really love how the bodice is just one big pattern piece! As for Downton, I was watching it tonight while I was sewing. I think the differences in the clothing stem from show taking place in England, while our patterns are from France. Also, they’re a wealthy, aristocratic family. None of the women would have made their own clothes- Sybil even went to the dressmaker’s in one episode- and perhaps the designs they chose would have differed from what lower classes would wear. I think our designs may be geared more towards middle class families.
I’m pretty sure that this magazine was at least originally aimed at the well to do and probably was through most of its run. Even in 1912 the majority of people didn’t have a new clothing any more frequently than when it was needed or for some special occasions. There was a lot of making over in the working class. I’m sure there are some France/England differences, but I think it was more that France was THE place for fashion, while others were copying what they saw in either the magazines, of if they were lucky, from an actual garment. On Downton Abbey some of the garments are existing pieces from earlier productions, some are made over garments and about a third have been created by their costume designer, Susannah Buxton. This could account for differing interpretations of finishing details. She also used old stashed fabrics when she could, but often had to use modern equivalents.
I don’t have this pattern but the blouse looks cute. The neck looks fitted and with a piping type trim using the main fabric, possibly on the 45 between the front and lining. Without seeing the pattern it looks like the buttons and front open which make it a little unusual I think.
Robin and I are going to make a muslin. I would really like to see it on a person rather than a dress form, so I may increase the waist a bit. I’m also going to try patternmaker and see how that helps.
I’ve got a 36″ bust like the pattern, but my waist is bigger by a good 3-5″ (depending on time of the month and if I’ve gorged myself on a big meal). I did not alter the pattern and have found that it fits perfectly well around my waist. While I haven’t tried it yet, I can tell that the blouse will be less gathered and ‘poufy’ in the front when I wear it with a high-waisted skirt.
I’m not even in the same zip code as these measurements. I’m hoping to recruit a friend. I’m 5’10″ and not at my most slender (wink). I’m really curious to find out how the patterns fit for taller people.
If you’re tall then I really recommend elongating the pattern. I’m 5’4″ and I was shocked at how short the blouse is. The sewing lines only go down as far as my bellybutton. I added a super generous 1″ seam allowance and I still wish I had added more.
Beautiful blouse. It looks like the buttons are hidden, or are they in the back. I would love to make this in contemporary bright fabrics.
Frr Mallory & DLBCULLOM, the blouse opens in the back and the front buttons are decorative.
Is anyone using a pleater board on this? If so, how did it work? I don’t remember seeing one this long.
I just did pleats like this on another blouse. As long as they’re on the grain, the fabric sort of ‘helps’. It didn’t take all that long. I pinned the top and the bottom and sort of snapped the pleat into place. Then I just checked it down the length. Very little adjustment needed.
The front of this blouse reminds me of Colette’s Sorbetto top with its center front pleat. I pleated the pleats on the far sides at 3/16″ and then the other two at 1/8″. I had the middle pleat overlap the pleat on the edge so that it looked as if it had been pleated at 1/8″ instead of 3/16″. But after doign that and sewing them down, I looked at the picture. On the right side of the picture it looks as if the big center pleat has more space between it and the middle pleat, while the left side looks evenly spaced between the three.
I did not get as much done as I would have liked today (car trouble), but will finish it tomorrow! I did not change the pattern size, and so far everything is sewing together well (have not gotten to the sleeves yet).
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Mari, I just read your post about the blouse! Nice work. I KNEW it was really short. Right now, I don’t think we will make this as more than a very fancy muslin, and I still think I will add to the length of the torso. I was curious what you thought about the pleating. In the picture it looks like the centermost pleats are stitched all teh way down the front but that the other two stop mid bustline. You stitched them all the way down? Do you like it better that way?
You are right! I didn’t even notice the stitching on the outer pleats stopped after the bust. I’ll rip some stitches tonight & let you know how it goes.
I like the design very much, but a little confused… are we supposed to be able to download this pattern somewhere on this blog? It seems like some people have, but I’m not sure where they downloaded from. I have the PatternMaker trial, so that shouldn’t be the issue, should it?
Only group#22 got this pattern.
Nope, group 16 got it as well. Liza, if you’re signed up to be a test sewer for the 1912 project you will receive a pattern specific to your group via e-mail. You can’t download them off the blog & you can’t choose which ones you get. But every month the project goes on you’ll get a nice surprise pattern to test sew.
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Reblogged this on vpll1912project.
It seems to be a little simple yet unique…what does the back look like.
I like the thin pleats and binding around top neck portions
1912 Blouse for Dummies – VPLL 1912 Project
the post on our website has pictures – http://idlehandsthems-fitsworkshop.blogspot.com
Our first pattern – Blouse EO191. We made this to the pattern size since neither of us thought we would wear it as it wouldn’t be flattering. We made it up in white muslin, with the trim pieces in beige dotted cotton that we had laying about. We wanted to make it fully lined and with most of the finishing (everything but back buttons). We were not able to do any fittings during construction. Apparently we are giants, and our smallest dress form was perfect except its neck which is HUGE. The lack of arms was a problem too…
We are re-learning sewing after modest experience in our youth. We opted to try to follow the instructions as written and write about how it worked for us. Some of the instructions confused us, but we expected that. Some of the choices we just didn’t like and would do differently if we were making it for us.
Trim
Sleeve trim – sewing the bottom of the trim to the sleeve with a small turned-under hem would not be our choice although it may be the easiest choice with the curved hem. We thought self-facing would look a lot nicer. There are no instructions for attaching the top of the trim piece so we top stitched it to the sleeve. Depending on the fabric used, there are doubtless better ways to do that too.
Neck trim – We chose to double the fabric because our fabric was very thin. We needed the extra body, especially with the beads. It didn’t meet in the back, even though we took slightly larger pleats in the front of both the blouse and the lining. This may be because of placement. We aren’t really sure. Others didn’t seem to have this problem. It didn’t lay flat on the shoulders once we put it on the blouse. The blouse itself lay smooth on the dress form and the lining matched well. Again, it could be placement, and solved by moving the trim higher up the neck. We couldn’t test that due to the dress form limitations (linebacker neck) and my unwillingness to make my 10 year old son cross-dress for this project. And then the binding, the binding that kicked out butts. This is very obvious at the point in the front. It’s not symmetrical top and bottom. We know what we did wrong. We chose not to fix it and call it an awesome learning experience. Here it is without the blouse.
Sleeves
They seem to stand out from the body and cant forward. We assume this is period styling. They went in easily using the pattern markings, although we had no ease (even though the pattern suggested we would). When we sewing in the lining, we sewed it right under the binding added at the shoulder.
Blouse body and lining
We re-folded the pleats out of personal preference. We took about an inch of additional volume out of the top. We sewed the binding strips to the shoulders before we we sewed the side seams which was easier but not nearly as tidy looking after we sewed the side seams.
The lining had us stumped at first. We started by lining it up at the neck and it just didn’t fit. It was far too small. We un-pinned it and started over at the arm scythe and everything matched right up. Thing is, we ended up having to trim quite a bit of fabric from the lining at the neck opening which made it too big. We added a couple of pleats on the inside and it looks nice.
We didn’t like the blouse bottom finish in the front. We thought a narrow binding strip over the gathers would look a lot better.
Finally, we really liked the little basque in the back. We thought it would look a bit silly, but really ended up liking it.
Not Surprising -
The drawing of the blouse is much longer and leaner than the actual garment.
This took us 7 hours from cutting to final press and pictures.
One adult beverage (each)
About a ’4′ on the profanity scale (primarily due to the $*#&$ binding).
We planned to finish this in a day but we were pleasantly surprised when we actually succeeded.
I have finally almost finished :0) my blouse after taking it apart 4 times and recutting the bodice. I’m still not sure about it but will get the pictures posted tonight and maybe someone will have some ideas to help me out! My blog is:
Maxwellscountry.blogspot.com
I am trying to get a post on here but don’t seem to be having any luck. Oh well, if this shows up check out my blog:
MaxwellsCountry.blogspot.com
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